Kefta and Camels in Merzouga, Morocco
Morocco is one of my favorite places on the planet. It’s the country I’ve visited most often outside North America, and every visit has a bit of magic and mystery.
I took a solo trip to Rabat a few years ago to volunteer as an English teacher, and a weekend excursion found me in Merzouga, a town in eastern Morocco just 31 miles (50 km) from the border of Algeria. I listened to the Gnaoua music of a Bedouin tribe, toured an ancient almond grove, and rode a camel into the Sahara Desert to camp under the stars with a small group of Germans, French, and Spaniards.
I loved everything about that sandy, starlit experience and would do it again in a heartbeat. But getting one’s self back to the middle of the Sahara is easier said than done these days.
What I can relive is the fantastic meal I had at a roadside food stand on the 10-hour journey from Merzouga back to Rabat.
My guide was doing his best to convince me that Americanized food would be my best choice for lunch, but I was having none of it. I asked what he would have for lunch if I wasn’t with him, and he said he would have kefta. So kefta it was!
Kefta is a huge patty of beef and lamb mixed with traditional Moroccan herbs and spices then grilled over an open flame. It’s served with grilled tomatoes and onions and a large, flat loaf of Moroccan bread called khobz, and you tear off a hunk of each and make something resembling a hamburger. But it tastes unlike any burger you’ve ever had. The combination of juicy lamb and beef mixed with fresh mint, parsley, and a host of spices is magical.
So while I can’t do much in the way of getting you on a camel, I can help you bring a bit of Morocco to your next backyard cookout.
This week’s subscriber exclusives: There are hundreds of kinds of bread in Morocco, and Khobz is one of the most versatile. You can enjoy toasted hunks of khobz with apricot jam for breakfast, use it to soak up the last delicious bits of Moroccan stew, scoop up tagine or couscous, or split a loaf by hand to create a makeshift bun for kefta. And while it’s an easy bread to bake, it tastes even more authentic if you cook it on a baking stone on the grill.
Mr. Mike Ballard and I first had Oranges with Cinnamon as dessert at the end of a very special anniversary meal in Marrakech, and we couldn’t believe something so simple could taste so wonderful and complex. It makes a great brunch dish, too!
Subscribers to Around the World in 80 Plates have access to both of these Moroccan classics.
Moroccan Kefta
Kefta is a huge patty of beef and lamb mixed with traditional Moroccan herbs and spices then grilled over an open flame. It’s served with a large, flat loaf of Moroccan bread called khobz, and you tear off a hunk of each and make something resembling a hamburger. But it tastes unlike any burger you’ve ever had. The combination of juicy lamb and beef mixed with fresh mint, parsley, and a host of Moroccan spices is magical.
I love making kefta at home now for dinner parties, and there’s something fun about pulling your portion off and assembling everything just the way you like it.
1 lb. ground beef
1 lb. ground lamb
1/2 cup onion, minced
1/4 cup fresh chopped parsley
1/4 cup fresh chopped cilantro
1/4 cup fresh chopped mint leaves
1 tablespoon cumin
2 teaspoons paprika
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 medium tomatoes
1 medium white onion
extra virgin olive oil
Mix the beef, lamb, onion, parsley, cilantro, mint, cumin, paprika, cinnamon, salt, black pepper, and cayenne pepper by hand in a large bowl just long enough to blend. Don’t overwork the meat to avoid making it tough. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour to allow the flavors to blend.
On a cutting board, shape the meat mixture into a large patty approximately 1/2-inch thick in the center and slightly thicker, approximately 3/4 inch, toward the edges. The large patty will shrink as it cooks, and this will keep cooking times consistent throughout.
Slice the tomatoes and onion and brush the slices with olive oil on both sides.
Using the cutting board, transfer the patty to a hot grill and cook five minutes before carefully flipping using a spatula with the assistance of grill tongs. (A pizza paddle works well for this, too; just be sure to clean and sanitize it thoroughly after using it with raw meat.) Cook five more minutes on the second side. Add the tomato and onion slices to the grill. If you’re using a gas or electric grill, turn the heat down to medium and close the lid while the meat and vegetables continue to cook.
Flip the tomato and onion slices after two minutes and remove from the grill after four or five minutes total when they are softened and have grill marks on both sides. Use a meat thermometer to check the internal temperature of the meat in several spots; it’s done when it reaches 160°F.
Pile the meat, tomatoes, and onions on a large platter. Don’t worry if pieces break off while you’re removing the meat from the grill and plating it; if anything, that makes it more authentic! Serve it with a large, flat round of freshly-baked khobz or with pitas sliced in half to form pockets. Makes six to eight servings.
For $5 a month, you can get an additional weekly issue of Around the World in 80 Plates that includes bonus recipes not available to the public.
This week’s subscriber exclusives:
- Moroccan Khobz: There are hundreds of kinds of bread in Morocco, and this is one of the most versatile. You can enjoy toasted hunks of khobz with jam for breakfast, use it to soak up the last delicious bits of Moroccan stew, scoop up tagine or couscous, or split a loaf by hand to create a makeshift bun for kefta. And while it’s an easy bread to bake, it tastes even more authentic if you cook it on a baking stone on the grill.
- Oranges with Cinnamon: We first had this dessert at the end of a very special anniversary meal in Marrakech, and we couldn’t believe something so simple could taste so wonderful and complex. It makes a great brunch dish, too!
